Ginger Lemon Squash (Syrup)

When we left for my cousin Mithu’s wedding, hostas were just starting to wrangle their way out of the ground in Chicago. I was relieved to see their twirly tips after slogging through a record-breaking winter.  Two thousand  miles away, we found bay leaves bordering my uncle’s front door and ruddy roses sunbathing in the garden. A large lemon tree stood in the backyard. My aunt suggested that we harvest some of the fruit. So I slipped my hand into the packed brush and pulled out several lemons. They were so voluptuous that I held them with a half open grip. 

My aunt mentioned making ginger lemon squash, which seemed like an odd combination to me. I envisioned a toothsome curry with a spicy-citrus kick, and wanted to suggest whipping up a batch of piquant lemon pickle or a dense, rich pound cake.

As we moved from house to house to visit family, I saw more lemon trees and heard more talk of ginger lemon squash. But before I could ask for a recipe, the conversation invariably switched to another topic. The recounting of a bad date by one cousin morphed into the story of a recent trip to Kerala by an uncle or an auntie’s detailed description of an earlier family wedding.  

Before leaving California, I packed my suitcase with a bag of bay leaves (pictured up above) and a pound or so of  organic lemons. I was determined to solve the ginger lemon squash mystery when I got home and to make a batch of it, one way or another. 

A week later, I learned, with the help of my Aunt Regina, that I had been foiled by the British and their crazy use of English once again! (Much more on that later).  It turns out that squash is simply the British word for a concentrated syrup flavored with fruit – in this case lemon (and ginger because Indians are so ga-ga for the spice).

GINGER LEMON SQUASH

Like many other cordials, this recipe is very easy to make. The ginger loses its zing once boiled and, offers a surprisingly subtle citrus flavor. The final drink, which calls for combining the syrup with water, is much less cloyingly sweet than the lemonade I grew up on. (My mom prefers a much higher sugar to water ratio!) Add more lemon juice if you want a stronger lemon flavor. 

Two tips before you get started:
- To get the most juice out of lemons, roll the fruit against the counter before you cut and squeeze them.
- If you end up with more lemon juice than you need, freeze it in an ice cube tray (like pesto). When another recipe calls for lemon juice, simply melt a cube or two. 

Makes 1 1/2 cups

INGREDIENTS

1/4 cup chopped ginger
3/4 cup water
1 1/2 cups sugar
1/2 cup lemon juice

INSTRUCTIONS

Place the ginger, water, and sugar in a saucepan. Bring to a boil. Lower the heat to low and simmer for 5 minutes. 

Cool completely. 

Stir in lemon juice. Strain out ginger.  

To make a cup of lemon juice, mix together 8 ounces of water and 1 1/2 tablespoons of cordial. Add ice.